Friday, May 20, 2005

Please Write: don't phone

Please Write: don't phone
- Robert Watson

While there is mail there is hope.
After we have hung up I can't recall
Your words, and your voice sounds strange
Whether from a distance, a bad cold, deceit
I don't know.

When you call I'm asleep
Or bathing or my mouth is full of toast.
I can't think of what to say, "We have rain"? "We have snow"?

Let us write instead: surely our fingers spread out
With pen and paper touch more of mind's flesh
Than the sound waves moving from throat to lips
To phone, through wire, to one ear.

I can touch the paper you touch.
I can see you undressed in your calligraphy.
I can read you over and over
I can read you day after day.
I can wait at the mailbox with my hair combed,
In my best suit.

I hang up. What did you say? What did I say?
Your phone call is gone.
I hold the envelope you addressed in my hand.
I hold the skin that covers you.

Friday, May 13, 2005

A funny thing happened on the way to the hairdressers...

WELL! Tooooday, I had my first adventure to the hairdressers in Japan and I tell you I may never leave now - I love this country, people are so nice!

First of all I wrote down my name and the lovely girl who took my details said "ohhh that's your name?" "Sagoi, Kawai!" - that means 'oh it's cool, very cute' in Japanese :)

Soo nice I thought! :)

THEN the stylist comes to look at my hair and as I anticipated his eyes widened in disbelief when I told him my hair was naturally curly (had it tied in ponytail), luckily I was expecting this and had brought along some photos so he could see the evidence for himself.

"ohhh like angel!" he said.

And that was it for me, I love these people I thought - so nice they are!

Then it was my turn to be surprised. "I have curly hair too" he says enthusiastically as he tugs out his hair tye to reveal layer upon layer of wavy locks (I tell you it was like watching one of those Wella Woman shampoo TV ads in slow motion!).

"Oh, cool!" I say giving my biggest grin whilst trying hard not to giggle. I am sorry, but it was like that time Elena and I went to the ballet and giggled uncontrollably at the men gaily flinging themselves about in tights whilst all the cultured people around us looked on disapprovingly....but really I mean c'mon - its just not natural!

oh dear, I am horrible, but I just can't help it you know, I'm from the country and I guess I like my image of men to be...well manly! Of course, intellectual, open minded, funny all that too (what that's not asking too much is it?), but asian men really are a lot more effeminate than kiwi blokes in some respects, I think it's all the fish and veges they eat...makes them slender...and they use moisteriser and dress well and do their hair.

He did make me laugh though, told me the rainy seasons coming up. Apparently in June it rains every day and the humidity is stifling...and causes in hair terms what he so charmingly called "fucking frizz"....I believe 'affro' is another term that's used. Oh Yay, I just can't wait for June.

Anyway, I digress, the haircut was great - but costly! almost $200 - make the most of it at home I tell you! You don't know how lucky you have some things, like going to the beach after work in summer, driving home in 20 mins, working only eight hour days!!!

And I left feeling nice and relaxed too coz they not only massage your head...but your shoulders and neck too!!

Oh and it's a two storey salon I went to right, so to communicate the staff wear these little ear plug things like intelligence agents do you know, and they pick up the little mic on a wire to say things to each other all James Bond spy like when they're working. so cool!

That's what I love about Japan right now, going absolutely anywhere is an adventure coz everything's new and I love watching all the people and the funky fashions they wear, they're so brave here - anything goes and no one cares which is so cool coz some of this stuff if you wore it at home people would STARE at you everywhere you went.

But what's worse kiwi's don't tend to be so polite in their staring either, they giggle and point at anything out of the ordinary. it's kind of sad we're like that huh, but I guess it's just coz it's a smaller town at home whereas here it's so big that you get a far broader mix of people and fashions.

Another thing I've noticed is how PATIENT japanese people are, but you have to be because you just can't get anywhere in a rush, it's impossible...and impolite. That's one good thing about this culture huh, they're very considerate and helpful and nobody pushes in front of anyone else.
It's kind of amazing really, but it has to be that way for this amount of people to live so close. Like the houses and apartments are so close that people wear slippers inside to reduce noise and don't play music loud or have parties. They're considerate of others and that's how they can live so closely together without killing each other.

But they also walk INCREDIBLY slow, kind of a shuffling amble, which I am not used to at all given that I am ALWAYS late, so not only am I having to learn to be patient, but ON TIME as well. Honestly, it's almost like I don't know who I am anymore :)

So yeah, I really love that side of the society, but on the other hand their willingness to just accept and resign themselves to situations kind of takes away an element of efficiency I think, or at least the ability to look for the opportunities for it becuase they're so used to having to just take the long route that they don't often look for ways or methods of doing things faster.

But I spose that's the story of life huh, there's always a good and bad side to everything and you just have to make the most of everyday and live your life as best you can for you.

Speaking of that, got my first paycheck today and already thinking of more travel plans. Kyoto of course, and Korea and China to visit friends (it's very cheap)....and THEN...maybe...
NEW YORK!!!!

iiiiiii know! New York? - when I'm in Japan?! But honestly, it's only about $600 return from here compared to $2000 back home so why not i reckon, after all I've always wanted to go and I know people who've got friends there too, so I might be able to get some accommodation for free if I'm lucky!

Anyway, we will see what the rest of the year brings, for now it's down to the business of saving and budgeting, but you know that's not so bad either coz sometimes I think the anticipation of something is more exciting!

Right, I'd best be off to do the groceries, it's 9.00pm, but that' s normal here - the super will be packed!

Oyasumi nasai - goodnight :)

Fernleaf

Sunday, May 08, 2005

About those drinks tho...

About those drinks though - alcohol in Japan is POTENT! Woke up with THE most terrible hangover after my first night out. Headahce, shakes, nausea - It was DREADFUL. annnnd I had a whole evening of kids training that afternoon. OH MY GOD.

Have also discovered I have most unfortunate habit of saying what I really think when I'm drunk. Got introduced to this one guy with HUGE ears that I'd already met during training 'do you remember me he said?' 'oh yes of course!' I said...whilst cupping my hands behind my ears to make big dumbo the elephant type shapes - oh dear!

I didn't mean to be mean - it's just the enebriated me figured his ears were so large he was obviously well aware of the them! And then his flatmate turned up and I started to wonder if the alcohol was causing me to see things larger than life, coz this guy had a SERIOUSLY big schnoz and THE most enormous bouffant Elvis hair I've ever seen!

I mean the guy was a dead ringer for that country singer that Julia Roberts married there for awhile! (what was his name again?) Anyway I managed to keep my thoughts to myself after that thankfully!

But I'm not the only one who's had a bad hangover, drinking's had the same effect on everyone here I don't know why but anyway, it really knocks you for six (or to everyone else here that sounds like 'sex' when I say it!).

Apparently, I have an incredibly strong Kiwi accent, which turns my workmates into a flock of giggling parrots whenever I speak - honestly, you'd think they'd grow up and get over it, but then they're mostly all boys, so there's probably not much hope for that :)

And they all just about passed out when I told them how old I was cos they thought I was about 22! As has everyone I've met - I think maybe they've all been in Japan too long!

Everyone's really friendly and helpful at work though, which is really good, but you can NEVER be late to work in Japan which is a rule I found out VERY quickly in my first week here - naughty Fern!

And the students are really nice too, one even told me I look like Kate Bosworth (blond american actress from movie 'Blue Crush') the other day!! Unfortunately the only thing Kate and I have in common is our blonde hair, but it has made me start to suspect that perhaps to asian people we westerners all look the same to them!

I really do think it helps being blonde in Japan though cos people are so much more willing to help you. I've talked to a lot of people who're surprised with the lengths people have gone to to help me because they never got that treatment, but I think it helps being polite and friendly.

I mean there's this girl at my work who's a nice person, but she also has a very confident manner to the point of being overbearing sometimes. Only I don't think she realises that she comes across that way to Japanese people.

I mean if you're gonna be all up in their face challenging them then they'll just shut down like a blank wall and won't help you at all you know. And treating them like they're dumb just coz they don't speak English when you're in their country, well I just think maybe you gotta wake up a little there coz they're not dumb at all...they know you're being rude and just plain old don't want to help you!

So anyway it's made me wonder if it's my blond hair that's the reason I've found people so helpful and others haven't? But also I think being polite goes a long way, but I do happen to be smaller and less intimidating than other foreigners here too I suppose.

It's not always a blessing having blond hair though as it kind of attracts unwanted attention.

Like this guy who asked me out at the train station: "Excuse me, are you flee?" "Pardon?" I said not realizing he was talking to me. "Are you flee?" (eh?..what who me?...Oh!) "Er, um..no, I'm going home." "Oh o.k. then, see you rater, I ruv you."

At least that made me laugh! But then yesterday two seperate guys asked me if I wanted to be 'best friends' and I find it even more creepy when they say that and know what they are thinking than someone who was more forward and honest. Even though I'm sure they think they're being polite by asking that way I just find it devious and icky you know - eeewww!

And then this other guy just started walking alongside me on my way home from the train station asking me questions, which i gave short answers to and felt mean being less than friendly, but for goodness sakes I hadn't asked for him to talk to me and I was starting to worry he was going to follow me home - but thankfully he went the other way.

ONLY THEN my flatmate and I went to a local restaurant the other night and who should be our waiter, but the SAME guy! Good lord - even Japan is a small place!

But then there are nice people too. Like this little old lady who made me laugh the other day she was just SO sweet!

She was following me around the supermarket smiling at me till I made eye contact and then she pounced wanting to know where I was from and why I came to Japan etc and all the while with this goofy grin on her face and mesmirized stare like I was some museum artifact.

She was SO lovely though, so I talked to her for as long as she wanted and she told me all about the time she'd been to New Zealand. Feel kind of like an ambassador for the place somedays - honestly, TourismNZ should be paying me commission!

That reminds me - I really must look up the population of Hamilton...and just exactly how many sheep do we have?!

Get up on it!

Hey, hey, how's things?

Well I got the VISA sorted - FINALLY! And made it out to that Jazz bar I was telling you about. It's sooo cool! Went with Aki, the japanese girl I met who works for L'Oreal (French cosmetics company) - god she has the coolest job and she says there are heaps of job opportunities here if you speak Japanese too - anyway she's REALLY funny and she introduced me to some really cool people too.

Like her friend who owns this jazz bar we went to (after we'd had beers at a really kitsch little belgium bar she knew) - I love the bars here - they all have themes or are like tiny and full of locals so you can't help but chat to everyone in there - anyway her friend owns and runs this cosy little downstairs jazz bar (why are jazz bars always downstairs huh? must be an ambience thing)...

Anyhoo, the owner ( woman with eternally classical looks who you can tell was VERY beautiful when she was younger and who used to date famous jazz musicians so has fabulous stories to tell) decided she liked me straight away 'what record would you like played Fern san?' she says. Hee hee, she's the first person who's called me that, 'Fern san' - so cute!

So she played Nina Simone and Billy Holiday for me from her own personal record collection (it's what makes the bar so cool that she knows every record intimately and that she actually uses RECORDS - makes it so much more authentic somehow :), which she has stored around the walls of the bar - which she can do coz this is Japan and NO ONE would take them.

And the regulars have name tags on their own bottles of spirits which they store there - crazy huh, but she also makes a really good coffee for you to if you don't feel like drinking.

Which I was. Tried Absenthe for the first time, its 70% proof and you drink it with water and ice - tastes like chilled aniseed, but still far too strong for my liking - apparently the french drink it in the summer...but they also eat frogs so I guess there's no accounting for taste huh :)

I hear frog tastes like chicken by the way - not that I would have thought there was much meat to be found on the little beggers, but maybe they breed special eating ones?

In Japan, they breed horses specially for eating. And they eat the meat very thinly sliced and RAW, accompanied with soysauce and ginger I think ? I'm told it's very nice, but I'm yet to find out...I'll let ya know :)

Also went out to another bar the other night which was also a cosy establishment and I taught the owner how to say 'Cheer bro' :)

He's such a cool guy - used to be a social worker, but quit to run his own bar coz he loves people and music (which he plays with his band) and John Lennon and of course his wife and their wee daughter who he couldn't stop raving about. Awwh.

I just love how I've met so many cool, friendly, funky and interesting people here. I'm so glad I did this because I hate to admit it, but coming here has made me realise I used to always have such a narrow view of asian people and now I appreciate them for the interesting individuals that they are.

If I don't acheive anything else all year I think this trip would have been worth it just for broadening my perspective that much.